Barbera

Barbera wine and its flavours

Barbera originates from the hills of Monferrato in Piemonte. It is one of the signature grapes of the Italian north. Barbera wine is known for its juicy flavours of red fruits: particularly cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Even when fully ripe, it has high acidity and low tannins. Barbera responds very well to oak ageing, producing some remarkable wines. Oak contributes tannins and complexity, and adds flavours of vanilla, chocolate, coffee and spices.

For too long, Barbera was looked at as an easy-drinking table wine. But, since the late 1980’s, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti and Nizza have gained an outstanding reputation. This was achieved by drastically reducing permitted harvests, selecting only the best grapes, and the clever use of oak ageing.

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Guide to Barbera wine

Barbera in the Official Registry

Registration Code: 019

Official name: BARBERA N.

Official permitted synonyms: n/a

The grape has been registered in the official MiPAAF Registro Varietà since 1970. [1]

Where Barbera wine is made

Without a doubt, Barbera’s spiritual home is in Piemonte. Its three top-level DOCG denominations are all here. Moreover, Barbera is Piemonte’s most widely-planted grape. Nevertheless, this grape plays a noticeable role in other regions – from the off-dry sparkling wines of Emilia-Romagna to rosé blends from Lake Garda.

Piemonte

Barbera d’Asti DOCG is located to the east of Langhe, and produces some of the finest expressions of this wine. Barbera d’Asti must include at least 90% Barbera, and each harvest is limited to 9 tonnes/ha. Soils to the north of Asti are rich in calcareous marls and sands (sabbie astiane), which produce wines with vivid fruity flavours. To the south of Asti, soils are rich in white limestone (terre bianche), and here Barbera wines are more structured, rich and complex.

Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG is a relatively large denomination which stretches across the entire Asti province. It shares its production area with Barbera del Monferrato DOC. Estates reserve their best grapes to produce DOCG wines, which are aged for 14 months (including six months in oak). Such wines are elegant, structured and have smooth flavours of fresh and cooked red fruits. The rest of the harvest is used to make fresh, fruity DOC wine, which can be released without ageing.

Nizza DOCG is considered the historic home of Barbera. It has a unique mesoclimate that produces the ripest grapes. Only 100% Barbera wine can be labelled as Nizza DOCG, and harvest is limited to 7 tonnes/ha. Nizza is famous for age-worthy Barbera wines with more depth and structure than you’d find elsewhere.

Barbera d’Alba DOC is a 30-by-30 km square that covers Roero, Barolo and Barbaresco. The disciplinare limits harvest to 10 tonnes/ha and allows up to 15% Nebbiolo to be added to the blend. Many prime producers of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero also bottle Barbera wines, which are very highly regarded.

Lombardia

Barbera produces notable red wines in Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardia. This region lies to the south of the river Po, in the foothills of the Apennine mountains.

Oltrepò Pavese DOC releases single-varietal (100%) Barbera wines, with flavours of juicy red cherry, kirsch, cherry liqueur and balsamic vinegar.

Barbera plays the role of minor blending partner in Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC. It gives the wine – which is typically 85% Bonarda and 15% Barbera – acidity and fresh red fruit flavours.

Buttafuoco DOC is known for its full-bodied, powerful and structured red wines. These are based on Barbera and blended with Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta. Traditionally, Bittafuoco wines are aged in oak and have soft tannins and complex flavours.

Riviera del Gardo Classico DOC is located on the western shores of Lake Garda. Although this appellation produces rosso (still red) wine, it is most famous for chiaretto – a pink rosé wine. Chiaretto is based on Gropello (30% or more), which can be blended with Barbera, Sangiovese and Marzemino grapes – although no more than 25% of each.

It feels like Riviera del Gardo Classico Chairetto was invented to be sipped on a hot summer day. This wine offers fresh, indulgent aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry.

Emilia-Romagna

The Northern Apennines continue from Lombardia’s Oltrepò Pavese to the Piacenza hills of Emilia-Romagna. The two regions share a similar winemaking heritage, and one can encounter similar blending formulae.

The Colli Piacenti DOC appellation covers the foothills of the Apennines, just south of Piacenza. It produces a Barbera and Croatina blend in a semi-sparkling style. The wine has a noticeable amount of residual sugar and tastes off-dry. This is, perhaps, quite typical for Emilia-Romagna.

Gutturnio DOC is a relatively new appellation, formed in 2010 in the hills south of Piacenza. It is dedicated to the frizzante blend of Barbera and Croatina. The wine can be perfectly dry, but the sweeter, off-dry version is very popular. Gutturnio Superiore is made from the best grapes and has a higher level of alcohol. Gutturnio Riserva is a more complex wine, as it has to be aged for at least two years before release, including six months in oak barrels.

The word “Gutturnio” is a reference to gutturnium – a type of 2-litre jug used for wine by the Romans. It symbolises the long-standing wine tradition of Piacenza.

Gutturnium - Roman wine goblet found near Piacenza — Gutturnium. Credit: Wine Scholar Guild

Barbera is also grown in the hills of Parma, east of Piacenza. Colli di Parma DOC makes both still and frizzante versions, with flavours of red cherry and violet tempered by a sour note of balsamic vinegar.

Campania

Barbera is planted quite widely – it's Campania's second most-planted red grape after Aglianico. With a few exceptions, however, Barbera is mainly used for easy-drinking table wines. In the last few decades, the dynamic progress of Campania’s red winemaking has been driven by its local varietals: Aglianino, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. The importance of grapes imported from elsewhere in Italy – such as Barbera and Sangiovese – has been decreasing.

Production Statistics

Barbera has always been among Italy’s most important grapes. However, its volumes have been decreasing. This reflects the market shift from inexpensive, low-quality table wines to higher-quality, DOC and DOCG wines.

Barbera area under vine in Italy (hectares) — Source: MiPAAF

To date, Barbera remains the fourth-most planted grape in Italy (after Merlot), and the most planted grape in Piemonte [1].

Sources:

[1] MiPAAF (1970-2010)

[2] ISMEA (2019)

[3] Wine Scholar Guild

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